Maison basse énergie à Mens / juin 2010

  • Architecte : Jean-Luc Moulin
Caractéristiques techniques
  • Surface : 122 m2 habitables (+ garage)
  • Total surface toiture terrasse : 156 m2
  • Toiture terrasse végétalisée, peu d’angles droits pour omptimiser les vues et les apports solaires
  • Murs comprenant 300 mm d’isolant, 405 mm en toiture
  • Plancher solaire direct (t° moyenne en hiver : 23 ° C)
  • Double-flux, puits canadien
  • menuiseries en triple vitrage
  • Structure en bois massif Douglas et en poutres en I

 

FIN JUIN
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Pose de la bande d’arase dotée de joints mousse garantissant une parfaite étanchéité à l’air entre la lisse très basse (semelle bois) et la maçonnerie.

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Pose des semelles bois en Douglas (45 X 240 mm), fixées avec des vis autoforeuse bois/béton.

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Vue d’ensemble du projet une fois les lisses posées.

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Montage des premiers murs : montants massifs en Douglas pour les précadres des menuiseries, poutres en I isolées en fibre de bois pour les linteaux de fenêtres et rencontres de murs. Poutres en I simples pour les montants intermédiaires.

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DEBUT JUILLET
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Les linteaux des menuiseries sont réalisés avec des poutres en I sur chant, le tout formant un U rigide qui sera plus tard insufflé depuis l’intérieur. Les jambages des baies vitrées sont réalisés avec des bois massifs, en Douglas.

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8 JUILLET
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Les murs périphériques sont terminés au bout de sept jours de travail sur site (plus trois jours de préparation des montants d’angles à l’atelier). Restent les refends avant d’attaquer le solivage de la toiture terrassse.

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Comme les murs extérieurs recevront une fibre de bois de 60 mm, un bois de contour est posé en périphérie pour compenser la différence d’épaisseur avec le plan de la toiture terrasse et de ses acrotères.

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Les linteaux non accessibles par la suite sont préalablement isolés avec du liège en vrac, comme celui-ci, qui communique avec le garage.

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Une fois les refends en place, nous nous attaquons au solivage de la toiture terrasse, réalisé avec des poutres en I de 406 mm de hauteur, pour des portées maximales de 7,2 m.

 

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Des points durs sont réalisés dans certains angles avec les panneaux de contreventement Pavaplan (8 mm), afin d’empêcher la déformation du bâtiment. Les points durs viennent sous les poutres en I auxquels ils sont fixés avec des vis.

15 JUILLET
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Une fois le solivage terminé sur la partie habitation, nous réalisons des sifflets dans des chevrons de 60 x 70 mm pour donner de la pente et faciliter l’évacuation des eaux de pluie (sachant qu’une bonne partie, environ 60 %, sera retenue par la végétalisation). Puis nous réalisons les acrotères, de hauteur variable en fonction des façades (de 25 à 45 cm).

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Les acrotères sont habillés d’Agepan DWD 16 mm, à l’intérieur et à l’ext. Puis nous commençons à poser les panneaux d’OSB (Livingboard 18 mm), qui assurent l’étanchéité de toiture provisoire, avant l’intervention de l’étancheur. L’objectif est de mettre rapidement hors d’eau une partie de la toiture, afin de stocker les menuiseries qui doivent arriver d’un jour à l’autre.

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21 JUILLET
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L’ensemble de la toiture est maintenant preque terminée, prête à être livrée à l’étancheur. Pose des derniers sifflets pour donner de la pente avant la pose des plaques d’OSB 18 mm, finition des acrotères, percements de ceux-ci pour les évacuations des eaux pluviales (sur une toiture terrasse végétalisée de sédums environ 40 à 60 % de l’eau de pluie est retenue par la terre et la végétalisation). À l’arrière-plan vue sur les montagnes limitrophes du Trièves et de la Drôme.

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Parallèlement à la réalisation des éléments de toiture nous avons également commencé à mettre en place les panneaux de contreventement intérieur en Pavaplan (épaisseur 8 mm, 1996 x 2800 mm) pour bloquer la structure et empêcher toute déformation.

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Les joints entre panneaux sont couverts par un scotch adapté, afin d’assurer l’étanchéité à l’air. Au pied du mur, les plans de l’architecte. On distingue bien les angles compliqués de la maison.

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Tandis qu’une équipe avance sur le contreventement intérieur (John et Sylvain), l’autre binôme prépare les consoles qui recevront les panneaux solaires thermiques qui alimenteront – entre autres – la chappe. Les étancheurs (entreprise Gervais) ont attaqué aujourd’hui.

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23 JUILLET
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Début de la pose des panneaux de fibre de bois extérieure, d’une épaisseur de 60 mm (Pavatherm KN+). Panneaux à double bouvetage assurant également une fonction pare-pluie. Ils sont provisoirement pointés, leur fixation définitive étant assurée par les lattes de 27 x 60 mm qui seront vissées plus tard par dessus. La résistance thermique de la paroi (24 cm de ouate plus 6 cm de fibre de bois extérieure) est de 7,55.

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Une fois que nous avons fait le tour de la maison avec la fibre de bois et scotché les liaisonnements fibre de bois/chevron de rive de l’acrotère/Agepan (bandes blanches sur la photo), nous attaquons la pose des lattes en Douglas (27 x 60 mm), vissées en partie basse avec des vis spécifiques qui évitent le poinçonnement de la fibre, et des pointes en partie supérieure sur les lisses basses et hautes de l’acrotère.

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30 JUILLET
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Le chantier de fibre de bois est terminé (ne manquent que les bandes sous les appuis alu des menuiseries que nous poserons lorsque nous les recevrons, début septembre), le lattage est également presque achevé.

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Un grand merci à Sylvain venu effectuer son stage avec nous dans le cadre d’un CAP charpente au Greta de Grenoble. À quatre on avance plus vite qu’à trois. En outre sa bonne humeur communicative a rendu ce chantier très agréable !

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Nous poursuivons ensuite le scotchage des panneaux de Pavaplan entre eux pour assurer l’étanchéité à l’air, avec un scotch spécifique prévu pour cela.

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En même temps nous posons le frein-vapeur en plafond et sur les refends (l’autre face recevra directement une plaque de Fermacell 12, 5 mm qui jouera à la fois le rôle de frein-vapeur et de contreventement). Ici Greg à l’agrafage, qui termine également son CDD avec nous. Il reviendra en octobre pour un CDI, et c’est une chouette recrue, humainement, et professionnellement. Le frein-vapeur ProClima Intello offre un Sd élevé (équivalent lame d’air de 0,25 m à 10 m), ce qui est indispensable pour une toiture terrasse. Contrairement aux murs, perspirants, les couches de bitume d’étanchéité en toiture rendent l’évacuation de l’excès de vapeur d’eau impossible vers le haut, d’où la nécessité d’une grande variabilité hygro de la membrane : en été les pores du frein-vapeur s’ouvrent au maximum pour laisser la vapeur d’eau migrer du plafond vers les pièces. L’hiver au contraire les pores se ferment au maximum pour limiter la migration de la vapeur d’eau dans l’isolant. C’est pour cette raison que nous ne travaillons jamais avec des pare-vapeur, car ils imposent une parfaite étanchéité à l’air, ce qui est impossible, malgré beaucoup de rigueur dans la mise en œuvre. La moindre fuite pourra laisser passer la vapeur d’eau, laquelle cependant ne pourra plus migrer dans l’autre sens. Pour plus d’info sur le sujet, il faut lire L’isolation thermique écologique, de Jean-Pierre Oliva et Samuel Courgey, aux Éditions Terre Vivante.

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De l’autre côté des murs de refend, nous posons des plaques de Fermacell de 12,5 mm, agrafés directement sur l’ossature. Ces plaques de gypse/cellulose, très denses, assurent le contreventement des refends. Elles offrent par ailleurs une bonne protection contre le feu, ainsi qu’une bonne isolation phonique. Enfin elles craignent peu l’eau et ne nécessitent pas de traitement hydrophobe particulier.

 

11 AOÛT
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Vacances ! Retour début septembre pour la pose des menuiseries, la réalisation des terrasses et la pose du bardage, ainsi que le test d’étanchéité à l’air. Bonnes vacances.

 

7,8 et 9 SEPTEMBRE
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Réception (enfin ! après de multiples retards) et pose des menuiseries au retour des vacances, tandis que l’insufflation des plafonds a débuté dans la maison (Obiou Multiservices). Injection de ouate à environ 35 kg/m3 pour une épaisseur variant de 400 mm à 406 mm.

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Il y a au total 19 menuiseries extérieures dont 4 coulissants à translation et 3 chassis fixes de 210 x 215 cm, un coulissant à translation de 280 x 215 cm, quelques fenêtres de toilettes et de salle de bain, une porte d’entrée et une porte de service. Il s’agit de triple-vitrage + verre retardateur d’effraction (SP10), très lourds, mais très performants thermiquement (Uw=0,96), en pin du Nord.

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La pose des menuiseries est toujours un moment délicat parce que ce sont des objets lourds, fragiles et coûteux, dont la pose requiert beaucoup de soin et de calme. Mais quel plaisir lorsqu’elles sont en place et donnent à la maison une partie de son âme. Les coulissants à translation sont beaucoup plus efficaces que les coulissants à relevage classique, du fait du déport du coulissant qui vient se plaquer dans le dormant. La manipulation est en revanche moins aisée et demande juste un peu de pratique.

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À l’extérieur, entre les dormants des menuiseries et la fibre de bois extérieure, nous avons ajouté une bande de 20 mm de fibre de bois pour rompre au maximum les ponts thermiques. Les tableaux bois viendront les couvrir ensuite, la bavette est elle en alu, comme l’habillage extérieur des menuiseries.

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Pendant ce temps le maçon (Cyril Mordanti) posait du liège en périphérie des fondations pour les isoler. Les étancheurs (entreprise Gervais) ont quant à eux fini l’étanchéité à la fin de l’été.

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Une fois les menuiseries posées, nous nous attaquons aux tableaux extérieurs en Douglas : les parecloses font 18 cm de profondeur pour 28 mm d’épaisseur. Elles sont vissées avec des vis inox. Nous fignolons en même temps l’isolation sous les bavettes alu.

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Depuis le 1er septembre nous sommes trois : bienvenue à Robin (à droite sur la photo), en formation en alternance pour l’obtention d’un CAP de charpente.

 

13 SEPTEMBRE
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Préparation des bavettes zinc en pied de bardage et du traitement des angles aigus, gérés avec un « carrelet » en forme de triangle recevant le bardage de part et d’autre.

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Réalisation d’un seuil massif en mélèze pour la porte d’entrée.

 

MI-SEPTEMBRE
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Nous avons attaqué le lot bardage, assez compliqué car les angles très fermés ne nous rendent pas la tâche facile. Le bardage est en Douglas, en partie purgé d’aubier. Angle sud-ouest, traité avec un « carrelet » triangulaire.

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Façade sud

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Les lames sont fixées par un vissage inox.

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Là où il n’y a pas de lames seront posées des stores à lamelles.

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Les jonctions de murs sont toutes traitées en joints creux et coupes d’onglets, sauf celles des angles les plus fermés (carrelet d’angle triangulaire).

 

NOVEMBRE
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Le gros du chantier est derrière nous, les panneaux Funder Max sont enfin arrivés, nous les avons donc posés, tandis que les chauffagistes mettent en place les panneaux solaires qui alimenteront la dalle béton pour la chauffer et produiront de l’eau chaude sanitaire. Les stores persiennes sont également en place, ne manquent que les terrasses.

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DECEMBRE
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[photo gauche] Test d’étanchéité à l’air à l’aide d’un blower-door, outil permettant de mettre la maison en dépression et en pression afin de mesurer les fuites d’air. Le blower-door est relié à un ordinateur, qui pilote le programme. Une fois la maison en dépression à 50 Pa, on passe avec un fumigène devant les fenêtres afin de trouver des fuites. On pratique la même opération mais en mettant la maison en pression, et donc en passant avec un fumigène depuis l’extérieur. C’est pour cette raison que la valeur mesurée oscille entre 0,16 et 0,22, ce qui confirme une très bonne mise en œuvre de l’étanchéité à l’air. Les points faibles concernent les joints des menuiseries (qu’il faudra régler pour qu’ils plaquent davantage), et les jonctions des panneaux de contreventement intérieurs / ossature, qu’il faudra scotcher. [photo droite] Des pastilles Pro Clima permettent de gérer la traversée des murs par diverses gaines électriques.

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La maison terminée, brises-soleil orientables Griesser, motorisation électrique et anémomètres qui permettent aux stores de remonter lorsque le vent est trop fort. Caisson en Trois Plis Douglas, bardage Douglas, couvertine en zinc.

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